There is a place like no other. It’s where one can slip in and out of shadows and into the light among gods and giants. It’s a place of profound light, quiet beauty. Welcome to the Thorvaldsens Museum! Opened in Copenhagen in 1848, this was Denmark’s first museum. The magnificent Greek style building, designed by architect Michael Gottlieb Bindesboll (1800-56), houses an astounding collection of sculptures in marble and plaster by Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen (1770-1844). After training at the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts, Thorvaldsen gained international recognition in Rome, where he worked for more than 40 years. His pieces grace many cathedrals, state buildings, public squares, and museums throughout Europe.

I returned recently on an autumn day to this museum.

A little flea market popped up in front of the Thorvaldsens Museum. Naturally, I browsed.
The Grand Hall runs the length of the front of the building. Many of these monumental plaster figures were models for bronze statues.
In addition to the phenomenal sculptures, the building itself is resplendent with its ornate plaster ceilings, tiled floors and brilliant colors.
ABOVE: Ganymede and the Eagle. In Greek mythology, Ganymede was abducted by Zeus, in the form of an eagle, to be cupbearer to the gods.
BELOW: Mercury and Venus
A long view of the galleries painted in vivid colors. In this setting, the monochromatic sculptures look especially striking.
Look up! The ceilings, inspired by Pompeii, are lavishly decorated. ABOVE: A tone-on-tone ceiling executed in grisaille.
Two beautiful ceilings that remind me of Wedgwood’s Jasperware.
 
Weaving around the sculptures, the light seems to dance down these corridors.
The very beautiful Psyche, Greek goddess of the soul, carved in marble.
The museum also houses Thorvaldsen’s art collection and furnishings, like these portrait paintings and handsome klismos chairs.
Here is one of Bertel Thorvaldsen’s most famous works: Night (relief in marble, Ca 1815). Night and her children, all with eyes closed, are seen floating nearby an owl. (There is an accompanying roundel of Day, which I did not photograph.)

Many copies of Night were made, including this plaster roundel in our living room. Our piece is from the 1890s, and it came out of a building in Boston.

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For more on this museum, please check out my friend Phyllis’ visit there. You’ll love Phyllis’ photos! And enjoy more of her work here.

Cheers,
Loi